These magnetic boards are really great for posting your WIP, ideas and inspiration. The one the left was made with metal rulers, while the one on the right was created with steel strapping. I could have made the one on the right with rulers but the steel strapping is much more cost effective (a roll was only $11 at the hardware store). That being said, I will tell you it is a PAIN to cut. I cut mine with heavy duty tin snips. OWWW my hands ached for a week! And filing was no picnic either, but I love my board, so it was worth it!

Ruler Board

Materials:

- Steel Rulers in various sizes (not aluminum kind, they are not magnetic), straight metal brackets can also be added

- Drill press or Dremel and drill bit for drilling metal or industrial glue

- Nuts and bolts or you can use an industrial glue to hold the pieces together

- Safety stuff: Goggles, gloves, vise and clamps

1. Step 1 – Gather rulers and brackets and arrange how you would like them

2. Step 2 – Drill a hole, (unless gluing) on the end of the ruler that doesn’t already have one. Use these holes to mark where top ruler will connect to under ruler and drill those holes.

3. Connect using nuts and bolts (or industrial glue). I like mine facing outward so my rulers will be flat on the wall (a). However, you can place them on the other side to lift the rulers up off the wall. This will allow you to clip papers to the board using laundry clips or paper clips(b), but may scratch wall.

a.

b.

Steel Strapping Board

- Roll of steel strapping from hardware store

- Drill Press and drill bits suitable for metal (not pictured)

- Heavy duty tin snips

- Metal file

- Rivets and rivet gun

- Safety equipment – Goggles, gloves, vise and clamps

- Measuring tape and Sharpie

Step 1- Measure and Cut - 2 length pieces and 2 width pieces to desired size. Wear goggles when cutting as the steel strap coil sometimes snaps back at you when cutting. Also, wear gloves because ends may be sharp.

Step 2 – File ends by securing in a vise. Hold file at a slant and move straight across edge until it is smooth. Also, round sharp corners using the file.

Step 3 – Drill Holes at the both ends of 2 width pieces and use those pieces to align, mark and drill both ends of the length pieces. Choose a drill bit just large enough for rivets to fit. Also drill 2 equally spaced holes in your width pieces for hanging (be sure to use a drill bit that will allow for drywall screws).

Step 4 – Arrange the frame of the board on a large space. Use the frame to determine the length and angles of cuts for the middle pieces. Cut and file the pieces. Be careful, angled pieces will be sharp so wear gloves when handling. Drill holes in the pieces and use the holes to mark where you will drill the hole on the frame piece. Once all of your pieces are cut, filed and drilled you are ready to begin assembly.

Step 5 – Set Rivets. Put frame together using rivets and a rivet gun. Insert long “nail” side of rivet into rivet gun (a). Place shorter rivet side into the 2 drilled holes that you want to connect. Squeeze the riveter until you hear snap and the long end of the rivet breaks off (this usually needs to be done twice). Squeezing the rivet setter causes the other end to enlarge and connect the 2 pieces. Once frame is put together attach the center pieces.

a.

b.

Step 5 – Hang the board using the holes drilled earlier for hanging. Mine has been hanging nicely on the wall for several months with plain drywall screws.

**Note: Don’t worry if the pieces of strapping bow out a bit from the wall. They have a tendency to do that since they came in a coil. The bowing raises the strapping off the wall and allows me to clip papers to it.