Update: I had to update some of the information after re-evaluating some of my processes. The changes refer to using the new papers (they are such a pain).   The main change is that when using the new papers w/adhesive they must be ironed to make the ink transfer.  Although, I’ve found that I don’t have to wet the paper backing to remove it.  However, the paper backing must still be wetted w/ the gel medium method or else too much lift off occurs.  This can be kinda cool though.

I’ve been creating image transfers for some time. I have tried almost every paper that is readily available. There are several sources and methods out there. There seems to be a recent trend toward using JetPrint Photo paper from Wal-mart. I have NOT had great transfers with these papers. Pulling the transfer print always tears my printmaking paper which is my receiving surface-of-choice. So, I find that the paper backing must be wetted resulting in some of the inks bleeding and making a mess on the printmaking paper. Also, JPP paper leaves much more paper fuzz.

Personally, I have found Epson papers to create the most remarkable transfers. Unfortunately, the papers that transfer perfectly are being discontinued. I have this far-fetched fantasy that Epson will hear my cry and begin to market these old coated papers as art transfer paper. Hey, Polaroid did it right? And inkjet image transfers would be even MORE accessible to everyone because no special equipment, other than a computer and inkjet printer, is needed.

The first thing needed to create perfect image transfers is the right paper*. Epson Glossy Photo Paper** is my favorite, but the Photo Quality Inkjet paper also works extremely well and is much cheaper per sheet. Both of these papers are still readily available online or in computer stores (especially in larger size). You can tell the old papers from the new in 2 ways: 1. Many of the old boxes are plain blue-and-white boxes, with no photos on the front, like the one in the picture above on the far left. 2. The old boxes do not have the number star rating like the box on the far right in the picture. Be wary of TRANSITION boxes which have the old names but have the star rating.

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*the “right” paper for transfers means 3 things to me:

1. it will not tear my receiving surface when I pull the transfer, I normally use Rives BFK printmaking paper as a receptor, which is a pretty soft watercolor paper. All 3 papers pictured above meet this requirement, but the new Epson Presentation Paper must be ironed to melt the inks into the adhesive, most of the paper backing will pull away and it may need to be wetted and rubbed off in order to not tear my receptor.

2. it will not leave behind a paper backing, if it does leave a paper backing it will not need to be wetted to be removed. Epson Photo Quality Inkjet paper leaves a paper backing that can be rubbed off when dry. The old Epson Glossy Photo Paper does not need to be wetted or rubbed off it just peels away leaving your image. Again, if the new Presentation Paper is ironed, it will transfer better.

3. if the paper backing needs to be wetted to be removed, the paper backing will not change color indicating that the inks have bled. The new Epson Presentation Paper backing must be wetted, and the inks bleed similar other matte photo papers, unless it is (you guessed it) ironed.

**not the new paper, called Epson Photo Paper Glossy. I have a whole conspiracy theory about why company’s change the name of their products so slightly but I won’t get into that.

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Okay, so now that I’ve explained all that to death. Here’s how to make a beautiful, successful transfer. I’m going to show you 2 methods that work in the same basic way but one is more immediate and expensive than the other.

1. Gather supplies:

- Images, trimmed and printed in reverse, onto one of the papers mentioned above (I used Epson Glossy Photo Paper)

- Receiving surface ~printmaking paper torn to size or fabric to transfer onto

- Either a double-sided adhesive sheet or acrylic gel medium and a foam brush (most people swear by Golden gel medium, including me. Others only use Liquitex. )

- Wax paper to protect your surface when painting on gel medium

- Something to burnish with (a bone folder or metal spoon)

- A brayer

- An iron and a flat surface to iron (I use a scrap piece of wood)

The Double-Sided Adhesive Method (more expensive, less messy, more immediate, more consistent)

1. Trim your image leaving no white areas around the image. Then, trim your adhesive to the same size as your image. Next, remove one side of the backing sheet on your adhesive. Usually, there is one side that is meant to be removed first.

2. Place your image face down onto the exposed adhesive.

3. Burnish well

4. Remove the other side of the adhesive backing leaving the adhesive layer on the front of your image.

5. Place your image face down onto the receiving surface (i’m using printmaking paper) and roll over the image with a brayer to glue it down and then BURNISH again.

6. ***If you are using the new Epson Presentation Paper you must also iron the back of the image, to melt the ink into the adhesive. Iron on med-high for 5 seconds. Protect your iron w/parchment paper. Also for new paper you need to wet the paper-backing and rub off to remove. ***

7. Begin peeling back the paper backing at one corner. Note that the dyes have become embedded into the adhesive which is now stuck to your recieving surface. ***Fusible interfacing and an iron can be used, just sandwich the fusible interfacing (which is essentially adhesive) in-between the face of your image and the receiving surface and iron. This method works great for fabric image transfers.***

See no wetting or rubbing, just a perfect transfer! (Some wetting/rubbing may be necessary with the new Papers)

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