Recycling Crafts | Craft Chi

Gocco Masters from Cereal Boxes

June 8th, 2009

***Important Update*** I just realized that the 200-mesh that comes on a roll says “not for use with Gocco Print Lamps”. I somehow overlooked this fact. The print lamps over burn the image and therefore do now retain fine detail. I apologize for this. I will still be selling the unimaged 70-mesh screens in my shop. However, I will have to image the 200-mesh on my Screenfax and mail the screen to you with your image already on it…Best, Amy

Okay, so I just got a Gocco machine and I LOVE it. I’ve been printing using thermal imaged screens for many years and I finally got a Gocco machine and some Riso ink and I’m sooo hooked. Figures, since RISO just announced they are discontinuing them. As a result, places to get supplies are bit hard to find. So, I decided to make my own masters.

Gather supplies:

- 3 Cereal boxes or Paperboard for each Master (trimmed and ready to go)

- Screen Template (cut out and ready to go)
or an old B6 Master with the screen cut out to use as a template

- Mesh – 70-Mesh for fabric or 200-Mesh for paper (which I am now selling in my shop)

- Scissors, craft knife, cutting mat

- Glue or Spray Adhesive

- Packing tape

- Copier Transparency or sturdy Cellophane cut to 5.5 by 7 inches (1 per master)

- Double-sided tape

Step 1

Trace your template. I cut my template from cardstock and even so had trouble with it curling. So, I found it helpful to use repositionable spray adhesive on the back to hold it flat while I traced it.

Step 2

Cut traced templates out and glue together. I found it helpful to use scissors for the outside and a craft knife for the inner square. You will need at least 3 paperboard cutouts for each master. Glue them together using spray adhesive or glue.

Step 3

Test fit the masters and trim edges if necessary. Try putting the master into your gocco, if it’s too tight, trim the edges. I found this very easy to do using a craft knife and ruler. Also, I cut easily through the thickness by scoring w/ medium pressure and several passes with the craft knife.

Step 4

Trim corners. This will help your master slide into place more easily.

Step 5

Draw an arrow on your frame. Lay the frame down as you would put it into your screen and draw the arrow on it to remind you how to put the master into your gocco.

Step 6

Wrap with packing tape. Use packing tape to protect the cardboard and make it sturdier. Also so you can use water-based inks and wash them off in the sink. It also helps to when removing a used a screen.

Step 7

Tape Screen to Frame.

7a. Apply double-sided tape to the side that does not have an arrow on it. Place next to the inner square of the frame.

7b. Lay screen mesh with shiny/smooth side up. * Tip – If you are using 70-mesh and it is curling up. You can apply a tiny piece of double-sided tape to the cloth side corners to keep it flat.

7c. Carefully, position the tape side of the frame onto the shiny side of the mesh and press down.

Step 8

Place protective plastic on Master. Put a line of double sided tape on the tabbed edge of the mesh, on the side without the arrow. Stick the transparency or cellophane to the tape.

And Viola! You have Gocco masters.

Posted in Crafts, Printmaking, Recycling Crafts | 11 Comments »

Mini Dress-Form Jewelry Stand

December 1st, 2008

Okay, so I’ve been seeing these things everywhere and have been having the urge to make one. (BTW – Sorry I’ve been away so long. The holidays are always such a hectic time of year, I figure most people are as busy as me anyway.) For this jewelry stand, I decided just to go the simple route of using spray adhesive, rather than sewing everything. This way, they are much easier and less time consuming. They are fairly inexpensive to make and would make great gifts. Here is what you need for to make your own Mini Dress-Form Jewelry Stand.

Materials:

-Inexpensive Craft Doll or Thrifted Barbie

- A thrifted candle holder. I like the kind with the rounded rims at the bottom. It gives me a place to put my rings.

- Sculpey or Fimo clay

- A versitle glue that will glue plastic to plastic and fabric to metal. I used Aileen’s Jewelry & Metal glue which smells alot like Super Glue and it worked great.

- Permanent spray adhesive

- Ribbon

- Fabric

- Batting

- Cotton/Poly Fill

- Hanger

- Aluminum Foil

Tools/Equipment:

- Heavy Duty Wire Nippers

- Pliers

- Iron

- Oven for baking Sculpey

Step 1 -Prepare the Torso

Remove head, arms and legs from doll. You just need the torso so remove everything else. Hmm, not sure what to use these for yet?

Determine the height you want the stand to be. Wad up a piece of Aluminum foil to act as an armature for the space between the torso and the candle holder.

Condition the Sculpey by kneading it until it is workable. Then flatten it out and wrap it around the foil and partially around the torso. Be sure to place pieces of sculpey around the empty legs part of the torso to stabilize it.

Remove the plastic torso and bake sculpey according to instructions on package.

Step 2 – Prepare the wire

Cut open hanger with nippers.

Straighten wire the best you can. Strip plastic coating from wire if desired/needed. Use nippers to cut wire to desired length (mine were 9 inches).

Step 3 – Attach plastic pieces

** First, stuff the plastic torso with poly or cotton fill.***

Apply glue to the plastic torso and stick it to the baked sculpey form. Apply firm pressure until the glue sets up.

Step 4 – Cover Form

First, cut a piece of batting to size. Then, spray the batting piece with adhesive and wrap tightly around the form. Cover the neck but it is not necessary to wrap batting around bottom. Trim overlap of batting away.

Next, cut a piece of fabric appx. 2×2 inches. Spray the back of the fabric with adhesive and cover the neck of the torso.

Cut fabric so that it is wide enough to wrap around the torso plus an extra half inch on top and on one side. Fold the fabric and iron half an inch on top and one side. Spray adhesive onto the back of the fabric and then wrap tightly aorund the form.

**Repeat for the bottom piece.** Except, be sure to leave an extra 1/2 inch of fabric on bottom so that you can wrap fabric under form.

Stitch in a few places to keep secure.

Step 5 – Embellish

Tie or stitch ribbons around waist and neck to help define the shape of the form a bit more. Embellish as you like. I glued the ribbon down to hide my seam and hand stitching.

Step 6 – Attach wires

Use a craft knife to cut slits in the fabric on the arm holes of the torso.

Work wires into slits. You may have to wiggle the wires to get them to go through the cotton batting.

Remove wires a little bit, apply glue and reinsert. Twist wires on both sides so that they become more stable.

Use pliers to curl wire slightly on ends. Shape wires as you like.

Step 7 – Glue form to candle holder base.

Apply glue to bottom of form and apply to base. Use firm pressure until glue sets up.

Enjoy! Just add jewelry!

Posted in Crafts, Household Crafts, Jewelry, Recycling Crafts, Storage, Thrift Store Crafts | 12 Comments »

Doily Racerback

March 2nd, 2008

I took this screenprinting test-shirt and refashioned it into a cute racerback using 99-cent doilies from Joann’s. I recommend using these inexpensive doilies to practice before using your pretty, vintage handmade doilies from the antique store. Although, admittedly they would look much better.

Here’s how I made it:

Materials:

Tee shirt

Tank top (to use as a pattern)

Doilies

Standard sewing stuff

Copy Tank Top pattern
First, I just laid a plain white tank top over my tee shirt, pinned it to keep it from sliding around and traced around it with a Sharpie to copy the pattern.

Cut around the marked lines leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Lay the doilies out in a pattern you like. Make sure that the doilies overlap enough to give the shirt stability.

Attach the doilies to eachother. Sew the doilies to eachother (NOT TO THE SHIRT) where they overlap. I recommend using a button stitch (individual stitch that is repeated several times in the same spot). Tie each stitch off and then start at another point rather than trying to do blanket stitch which would cause the doilies to bunch up.

Cut the shirt open at the shoulders. This will allow you to get the shirt into your sewing machine and sew around the doilies a bit easier.

Pin the strung-together doilies onto the back of the tee to hold them place.

Sew the top and bottom of the larger doily piece. Sew as if the doilies were one big, oddly shaped doily (don’t sew each individual doily). I used a zig-zag stitch to secure it really well. Leave the sides (where the sleeves are) open.

Here’s what the back of the shirt looks like when you are done sewing. **Note that I sewed only at the top and bottom. Not in the middle and not down the sides.

Cut away the fabric behind the doilies. Insert your scissors in-between the doilies and the t-shirt and cut away the excess fabric.

Sew the shoulder seams back together. Reattach at the shoulders by turning the shirt inside out, pinning and sewing.

Finish arm holes. Fold the arm hole seams in about 1/2-inch, pin and sew using a zig-zag stitch. You can choose to fold the the doilies back or not. Just don’t trim the doilies or they will unravel.

Try it on! You may need to make adjustments by pinching and pinning (and sewing) the underarm area. Once you have sewed it so that it fits to your liking you can wear loud and proud!